JAKARTA, THE CAPITAL CITY

Indonesia’s capital city lies along a flat coastal plain between the south china sea, studded with coral islands, and the verdant highland interior, dominated by a twin peaked volcano visible from the city on any clear day. Thus no matter which way the jakarta looks, he faces factors of enormous importance in indonesia’s past and present. The sea has tied this archipelago nation together and provided a path to and from the outside world, while the volcano’s of java’s interior contributed the fertility which enables this island to support the people who live here today. Although, jakarta is on java, the people of his hinterland are not “the javanese” proper, who inhabit the eastern and central portions of the island, but another important ethnic group, the sundanese, with its own language and cultural tradition. Nevertheless, jakarta is not a sundanese city, the way in which yogyakarta, in central java, is javanese. It is a rich cross-cultural potpourri of all the peoples and traditions in the eastern isles, spiced by influences from the middle east. From europe and from china.

HISTORY

Inscriptions of trauma, one of the earliest hindu kingdoms in indonesia, dating from the 5^th century, have been found near tanjung priok, the modern jakarta fort area. However, little is known of the history of trauma, and in succeeding centuries down to the arrival of the first europeans, there was never any significant kingdom at the mouth of the ciliwung river, jakarta’s chief stream. By the 6^th century the future site of indonesia’s capital lay between important moslem sultanates of banten and cirebon, to the west and east respectively. The portuguese, who preceded the dutch and english as the first of a wave of aggressive european’s looking for commercial bases on java, discovered in 1522 that the site of jakarta ( then called sunda kelapa ) was inhabited by a minor prince who, unlike his more powerful neighbors at cirebon and banten, had not yet converted to islam, but was still a hindu. Since potuguese saw themselves as anti-moslem crusader, they made an agreement with this raja of sunda kelapa to allow them to establish a trading station. But when they finally sent another expedition in 1527, sunda kelapa had just been conquered by the hostile islamic sultanate of banten, which of course refused to honor the earlier agreement. The bantenese called the settlement “jayakarta” (great victory), from which the modern name jakarta is derived. The birthday of the city, celebrated every year on june 22 with which fanfare, is dated from their conquest of the site. Banten rule was short lived. In 1619 the dutch, under an enormously energetic, competent and ruthless captain named jan peterzoon coen, established their chief base on java at this site, which they renamed batavia. From this point the dutch east india company managed a prosperous trading empire, successively excluding their european rivals and monopolizing the lucrative trade in spices originating in the islands of eastern indonesia. It should not be imagined that the dutch immediately conquered java, much less the entire archipelago. What they controlled from batavia was at first no more than a chain of trading posts linked by a powerful navy. Only the fact that their numerous indonesians enemies could never unite against them ( although batavia was on several occasions besieged by powerful javanese and sundanesse forces ) insured the survival of the dutch in these early years. Many individual ethnic groups and areas, and even whole islands, remained independent. Not until the early 20^th century did batavia truly become the capital of all the territory that now comprises indonesia.

Batavia castle, the nerve center of the dutch empire, was located near the present site of pasar ikan ( fish market ) at the extreme northern edge of the city. From this region the city has been growing southward ever since, away from the increasingly congested coastal areas (once also fever-ridden and unhealthy) and toward the distant volcanic uplands. Much of the city’s modern commercial center north of merdeka square dates only from the 18^th century. As recently as that period the area of pasar senen, now one of the most congested in the world, contained the country estate of a dutch governor general. Proceeding southward, menteng, where the american embassy and the hotel indonesia are located, is largely the product of the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries. Further south still, the planned satellite town of kebayoran baru was laid out by the dutch only after world war ii, and it became part of the city of greater jakarta as recently as 1950.

THE POPULATION

Through out most of the dutch period, the population of greater jakarta grew very slowly, from 32,068 in 1673 to 47,217 in 1815, to 110,669 in 1893. But by 1930 the population had reached 1.636,098 and in the subsequent 40 years it has more than tripled again- to the grand total of 4,638,642 in december, 1973. At first, malaria and other diseases held the growth rate down, for batavia was notoriously unhealthy. In the period between 1735 and 1780, there were 17 different years, according to official records, when more europeans died in the city than lived there as permanent residents. This alarming statistic is explained by the fact that many of the epidemic victims were crew members on ships who succumbed with terrible swiftness to local fevers. By the 19^th century, however, sanitation measures had greatly reduced the death rate, while colonial prosperity attracted an influx of population. More recently, since world war ii, the population of jakarta has been swollen by refugees from revolutions and insurgencies elsewhere on java. And above all by the familiar process of urbanization farmers fleeing the over - populated countryside to seek cash income in an increasingly overcrowded city.

In the early days of dutch rule the new overlords were suspicious of the local people, with whom they were frequently at war, and the number of sundanesse and javanese who were allowed to live in batavia was carefully limited. Much of the population consisted of slaves, large numbers of whom were portuguese-speaking indians imported from another dutch possession in arakan (now part of burma). Many of their descendants were eventually converted to christianity, freed, and gradually formed a prominent class of the population known as “ mardijkers” in the late 18^th century the mardijkers came to be known as “native christians” or “portuguese” although they were indians, not natives, and, despite their language, they were without a drop of portuguese blood. They were so important that until the mid 19^th century official city announcements were printed in portuguese. Today they have almost vanished as a separate community, but their monument remains in the form of the “portuguese church” dutch reformed by denomination, which the dutch gave to them in the eighteenth century.

After 1665 when the dutch lost arakan, the majority of the slaves ( always preponderately female ) came from the island of eastern indonesia, especially from bali. Balinese influence was so strong that in recent times linguists have debated whether the distinctive jakarta dialect ( ngomong jakarta, or batavian malay ) was a variant of malay, the forerunner of modern indonesian, as is now generally acknowledged, or was really based on low balinese!

Also important from the earliest times were the chinese. They were sometimes terribly mistreated by the dutch, as in the infamous massacre of 1740, known as “the batavian fury” in which several thousand chinese perished. In general, however, the dutch like other colonialists in southeast asia encouraged chinese settlement, for without skilled and energetic participation of the chinese as middlemen, craftsmen, and cultivators, the indies would not have prospered as they did. As elsewhere in indonesia, the jakarta chinese were (and are) divided into two main groups-those who remained purely chinese in language and customs (totok or pure) and those, known as “peranakan” who, sometimes after several generations of intermarriage with indonesians, habitually spoke indonesian instead of chinese and followed distinctive sino-indonesian customs. In the 18^th century many peranakan chinese become moslems and gradually merged completely into the mixed “native jakarta” population, but in later decades, perhaps because there were more women immigrants from china, the peranakan chinese have remained a separate community.

Aside from these groups, peoples from nearly every island in indonesia and every corner of the far east-including arabians, armenians, japanese and many more not discussed in detail-have come to settle at one time or another in jakarta. In early colonial times, ethnics communities were set apart in separate kampongs, each with its own headman, and this pattern is still evident in many parts of the city.

It was only towards the end of dutch rule that the peoples of java, the javanese and sundanese, began to dominate the population of a vastly larger jakarta, as they do today. While much intermarriage and assimilation has taken place, the process is still going on, and the end of product-the native jakartan, or orang betawi, is as complex in ancestry as anyone in the far east. As the australian historian lance castles has pointed out, “israel zangwill’s well - worn metaphor of the melting pot comes to mind-into the crucible, sundanese, javanese, chinese and batak, god is making indonesian!” It is therefore a city in which americans should feel very much at home.

SIGHTSEEING

Sightseeing in jakarta is not so much a matter of visiting big and obvious attractions, as of seeking out the historical sites of old batavia and the cultural endeavors of the city’s diverse modern population. The following self-guided tours and listings of important sights will get you started exploring the city.

OLD BATAVIA AND SUNDA KELAPA

An extensive project to restore part of the old dutch kota, or walled city, and other historical structures in jakarta has been undertaken by the governor general of jakarta, with the help of u.n. Advisers. The fascinating history of this city will be vividly presented through the restore sections, covering the period when jakarta was a spice trade port called sunda kelapa in the 5^th century, through the period in 1619 when it was known as batavia of the dutch east india company, and continuing to the present date. Those who want to tour the restoration area on their own can start by taking a car or taxi from medan merdeka barat and go north on jl. Gajah mada (named for a famous majapahit prime minister) this road once led south from the dutch fort on the waterfront to the country houses of the gentry, and, in the 18^th and 19^th centuries was lined with elegant mansions whose vast gardens stretched down to the ciliwung river in back. The national archives building, 111 jl. Gajah mada, is a lovely example of such homes. This residence, built in 1744, was especially grand because it had its own hot spring which is now on the property of the hotel next door. The archives building still has some of its original carving, interesting delft tiles around the baseboards, and antique furniture. Visitors may visit the building by making previous arrangements (telephone 20793 or 21042) and may walk in the garden afternoons without appointment.

After leaving the archives, continue north on gajah mada until you reach a big fork in the road. Bear left off jl. Kemenangan - pintu kecil. You are now in glodok, the chinese quarter of the city, a marvelous place to shop and eat. This area has always been the center of chinese settlement in jakarta; in previous centuries, the chinese had to live outside the walls of the dutch kota. The road you are ran parallel to one of the city walls and jl. Pintu kecil, or small gate, was named for one of the entrances to the city. On the left as you cross a small bridge, you can see one of the few remaining streets of old style chinese houses in jakarta. Continue another block or so and turn right over another small bridge; you have now entered the old kota.

You come out on front of the railroad station; jl gajah mada has become jl. Pintu besar, or big gate, in former times the main exit to the elegant south. Continue north on pintu besar for several blocks and you will arrive at the center of the old city, taman fatahilah, once named stadhuys plein by the dutch, and the heart of the restoration project. Until recently this square was congested with buses, bemo’s and becak’s, but has now been restored to its 19^th century paved appearance. The fountain in the middle of the square is situated on the foundation of the original fountain and based on a 1788 sketch of the area. The imposing building on the southside of the square is the jakarta museum, taman fatahillah 1. Completed in 1710 to be the dutch state house (stadhuys), it now contains exhibits, pictorial representations, and replicas of historical records tracing the development of the city from the earliest times to the present.

Si jaguar, “the big one” is a huge old cannon which stands opposite the museum, facing the fort of sunda kelapa and the sea. City restorers have stripped si jaguar of myth by remounting it on a gun carriage, but it was for years on various sites worshipped by women desiring children.

The dutch built their fort, castel batavia (no longer in evidence), on the site of an earlier sundanese port at the mouth of the ciliwung river, now named kali besar ( big river ). They straightened and canalized the river, but it remained the dominating factor in their city plan; it helped form the moat of the castle and was the river that supplied water to their country houses. Some old dutch trading houses are still situated along the canal. After you leave taman fatahillah, continue north on pintu besar for two blocks until it dead ends at a gas station; at that point, turn left and go one block until you reach a canal. Turn right (north) along the canal and continue for two blocks and you will see an old dutch drawbridge, jembatan kota inten, the only one left in the city. It crosses the canal at the spot that was once the southwest corner of the old dutch fort. The fort had four points, each named after a jewel; this point was intan, or diamond.

After you have seen the drawbridge, drive back east one block and continue north on the main road for a few blocks until you arrive at sunda kelapa (pasar ikan). Having recently officially resumed its original name, sunda kelapa is perhaps the only surviving sailing port in the world, with a registered fleet of some 10,000 boats. If you go left over the bridge, you will arrive at the large city fish market which serves as an outlet for the local fisherman’s large harvest from the sea. Small shops abound in this area, specializing in ships fittings, rope, coral, shells, indonesians toys, and, surprisingly, all sorts of basking dishes and salad molds. At the entrance to the pasar, you will see an impressive old east india company warehouse, built in 1673, scheduled to be converted into a maritime museum. Replicas of ships once active in the spice trade will be moored in front of the museum.

The historic mosque, masjid luar batang, stands on the north side of the east india warehouses. Built in 1734 by a local islamic saint whose tomb is located in the mosque, the original construction was financed by a dutch military commander who felt his meteoric rise to the governor generalship was due to the prophecies of the saint. About 150 bugis schooners are handled each day at the harbor and are berthed in a restricted area. (to enter this restricted area, do not cross over the bridge to the pasar, but continue straight for about 100 yards) these lovely vessels from makassar are part of the worlds last great commercial sailing fleets. They bring mainly timber from the outer islands and return with cargoes of manufactured goods. You are free to wander the quay, watching the crews repair sails and fittings, and often permitted to board the ships after you register at the military checkpoint. Cameras are not permitted. As is usual for fort areas throughout the world. It is recommended that sunda kelapa be visited during the daylight hours only. After you have seen the schooners, retrace your route and drive back past the railroad station square and turn left on jl. Jembatan batu. Continue for four blocks and you will reach the gereja sion (portuguese church), jl. P. Jayakarta 1. This large dutch baroque style church was built by the dutch in1693 and later given to the portuguese possessions. These slaves were given their freedom if they converted to protestantism, and the dutch provided their converts with a church to encourage the practice of their new religion.

The monument to pitter ekelvert is located on the same side of the street, and about 300 yards past the portuguese church. This inscribed stone, surmounted by a stone skull, warns against building on the land of pitter ekelvert, who was drawn and quartered by the dutch in the 1730’s for leading an upraising against the dutch east india company.

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST

Some of the most interesting spots to visit in jakarta are listed below. For additional listings, refer to the recreation and entertainment, and the museum portions of the shops and services section of this book. The map of jakarta at back of the book will aid you in finding your way around. The visitor information centre, jakarta theatre building, jl. Thamrin 9, is an excellent source of information relating to tourist travel in jakarta and throughout indonesia. The centre, run by the city of jakarta and the director general of tourism, will supply you with free brochures.

Cilincing this small fishing village is located further east along the road to ancol and tanjung priok. Turn right at the first stoplight in tanjung priok onto the main east-west road, you will pass a sign to pelita bahari on your left, then, just before a large windmill on your right, turn left on a small, roughly surfaced road. It soon brings you to the middle of a fishing village and small port for coastal steamers, which is called kali baru. Here you can rent a small skiff and be paddled around the harbor to observe the scene from the water as well as the wharf. Continue further along the road until you come to the village of cilincing. The colorful tower toward the sea on your left is a part of an old chinese temple, renovated in 1961, and offers a superb view of the ocean. You may rent a small boat on the beach and inspect more closely, if you wish. Hundreds of close-in fish traps. To reach the tower, turn left opposite the kelurahan office. From the tower you can also see the numerous fish-raising ponds that provide the livelihood for many coastal dwellers. The newest enterprise in this area is raising jellyfish as food to export to japan. Right across from the entrance to the temple is a small road leading to an historic old mosque, which is said to have been founded by sunan gunung djati, one of the nine wise men who introduced islam to indonesia.

CITY HALL ( BALAI KOTA D.K.I ) : merdeka selatan 8 – 9

CONVENTION HALL : JL. Gatot Subroto, Just Beyond The Hilton Hotel Complex. This Attractive Building Was Completed In 1974.

FINANCE DEPARTEMENT : This Large Building Occupies The East Side Of Lapangan Banteng ( Wild Buffalo Square ) Construction Was Begun In 1808 By Bonaparte’s Governor General Daendels Who Intended It To Be His Summer Palace.

GEDUNG POLA : Jl. Proklamasi 56. Indonesian Independence Was First Proclaimed In This Building On August 17, 1945. A Stone ( Batu Peringatan Proklamasi ) Commemorating The Event Is Located In Front Of The Building, Which Now Houses The Development And Planning Board.

GEREJA IMMANUEL : Jl. Merdeka Timur 10. This Massive Circular Domed Building Was Erected In 1835 As The Church For The Governor General Of The Netherlands Indies. During World War II It Was Used As A Repository For The Ashes Of Japanese Troops Who Died During The War. The Church Now Serves The Active Congregation Of The Gereja Protestan Indonesia Barat. The Present Pulpit Was Formerly The Enclosure In Which The Governor General And His Wife Sat When They Attended Services.

INDONESIA PERMAI : ( Orchid Garden ) Located In Slipi Suburb, This 35.000 Square Meter Garden Has One Of The Biggest Collections Of Orchids In South East Asia. The Garden Is Divided Into Several Sections. Each Decorated And Styled In Keeping With Different Tribal And Traditional Houses In Display.

ISTIQLAL MOSQUE : Merdeka Square, Northeast Corner. Now Under Construction, This Immense Mosque Will Be Jakarta’s Central Place Of Moslem Worship.

JAKARTA FAIR GROUNDS : Merdeka Square The Jakarta Fair An Annual Event Is A Mixture Of Commercial Exhibits And Old-Fashioned Country Fair Entertainment. Each Province Of Indonesia Has A Pavilion With Arts And Crafts Displays : These, Along With The Music And Dances Performances, Are The Best Available Introductions To The Variety Of Indonesian Culture, Short Of Visiting Each Region. The Taman Ria Amusement Park Is Located On The Fairgrounds And Provides A Wide Range Of Amusement Facilities. Several Excellent Restaurants Are Situated On The Fair Grounds.

KATHEDRAL : Jl. Kathedral 7, Northwest Corner Of Lapangan Banteng. This Roman Catholic Church Was Build In 1900 By An Architect Named Hulswif, Following The Plans And Design Of Pater Dijkmans.

LAPANGAN BANTENG ( WILD BUFFALO SQUARE ) : The West Irian Freedom Monument And The Finance Department And Supreme Court Buildings Are Located Here, As Well As The New Hotel Borobudur. In Colonial Times, The Square Was Called The Champs De Mars And Was Used As A Drill Ground For Troops. In The 19^th Century It Was Rechristened Waterloo Square And Became The Evening Promenade Ground Of Fashionable Society. This Square Now Is One Of The Main Bus Terminals Of The City.

MERDEKA PALACE COMPOUND : Merdeka Square. This Government Compound Includes The Following :

Istana Merdeka ( Freedom Palace ) Is The Official Residence Of The President Of Indonesia, And Is Located On The North Side Of The Square. Originally The Country Home Of A Wealthy Dutchman, It Was Taken Over By The Dutch Governors General In The Middle Of The Last Century For Use As Their Jakarta Residence. It Is, Except For Its Elaborate Porch And Colonnade, A Typical Example Of An Early Dutch Colonial House. The Back Of The House Looks Onto A Beautiful Garden Which Extends North About 100 Yards To The Istana Negara ( State Palace ). This Palace Is Really An Elaborate Formal Reception Hall, Not A Residence. The Older And Most Northern Part Dates From The Early 19^th Century. The Other Part, Toward The Istana, Is An Extension Made In 1920. East Of The Palace On Merdeka Utara Is A Military Police Compound. The Bina Graham, The Presidential Executive Building, Is Located In The Compound On Jl. Veteran. Farther West Is The Dalam Negeri, Department Of The Interior, In The Building Which Was Once The Pre-War Netherlands Indies Interior Building. Puri Buarti Renatama, An Art Gallery, Is Also Located In The Palace Compound And Has Its Entrance On Jl. Veteran. Paintings, ( Including Some Very Fine Ones By Raden Saleh ), Art Object From The Former Sukarno Collection. Gifts From Foreign State Guests And Indonesian Wedding Costumes Are Displayed In The Gallery. A Mosque And A State Guest House Are Also Situated In The Compound.

PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS : Jl. Gatot Subroto, West Of Senayan Sports Complex. These Building Were Begun By Sukarno To House His Abortive Conference Of Newly Emerging Forces. After The 1965 Coup They Were Designated As The Home Of The DPR, Indonesia’s Parliament, And They Are Now Nearly Completed.

SINGING FOUNTAIN : Merdeka Square, West Side. This Recently Completed Fountain Is Programmed For A Coordinated Performance Of Colored Lights, Music And Water. Half Hour Performances Are Given Every Evening Between 6 : 30 And 9.