CENTRAL JAVA

Central Java, with the adjacent of East Java around Malang, is the cultural and historic heartland of the island. The ninth century Prambanan and Borobudur temples are remainders of the Sailendra’s, the earliest great Hindu-Buddhist dynasty in java. Majapahit was the greatest of all Pre-Islamic Kingdoms, ruling far and wide in the 14^th century. Its famous Prime Minister Gajah Mada has been commemorated in the naming of Yogyakarta’s University. Later, after Islam reached the north coast of Java, Hindu-Javanese culture was preserved under a thin veneer of the new religion in the inland kingdom of Mataram. A series of wars in the early 18^th century gave the dutch some control over Mataram, and in 1755, the Dutch split the kingdom in two, one centered at the Susuhunan Kraton ( palace ) in Solo, and the other at the sultan’s Keraton In Yogya. Their political power severally curbed, these two keratons concentrated on the traditional arts of batik making and keris forging. The palace dancing and gamelan orchestras developed during this period, as did court literature. The rulers of Yogya and solo retained certain powers of autonomy throughout the Dutch period. During the revolution, sultan Hamengkubuwono IX of Yogya sided with the nationalist; today he is vice president of indonesia while his city remains a special district, administratively independent of central java.

THE DIENG PLATEAU

Dieng, a volcanic plateau 6500 ft. Above sea level, is the site of some of the earliest known Hindu-Javanese temples, believed to have been built around 800 A.D. these temples have become ruins and are much smaller than those around Yogyakarta, but are interesting and adorned with attractive carvings. They are in the center of a large field directly in front of you as you enter the Dieng gate to the plateau. Now a swamp, was once drained by a complicated water tunnel, the remains of which can still be seen. A left turn at the gate takes you to Telaga Warna ( lake of many colors ). There are paths around the lake and pleasant spots to picnic. Close to the lake, on one of the paths, is the famous Goa Semar cave where many indonesians go to meditate, up the road beyond the lake is Candi Bima, the most charming of all the temples. The narrow but good road up from Wonosobo is one way, so check hours of ascent ad descent in Wonosobo before starting up. Views are spectacular. There are no sizeable restaurants; take a picnic.

HOW TO GET THERE

Wonosobo, The starting point for the road up to Dieng, is about 12 hours. From Bandung, 394 km by car, via Cirebon, Purwokerto and Banjarnegara. The road between tegal and Purwokerto is very bad but passable. An alternate, shorter route 431 km is through Garut, Tasikmalaya and Banjar. To Yogyakarta it is a good 3 hour. Drive ( about 120 km ). Wonosobo is a comfortable and interesting place to break a trip from Jakarta or Bandung To Yogya.

PANANJUNG GAME PARK

This game reserve on the south coast of central java offers no luxury, but a number of outdoor activities: skin diving, surfing, fishing, animal watching. A comfortable two-days or a very long one-day drive from Jakarta, Pananjung is an ideal quiet retreat. Little English spoken in the area.

HOW TO GET THERE

Drive From Bandung To Garut ( can overnight there ) then to Banjar, head due. 64 bumpy km. To Pangandaran, the entrance to the game park.

SEMARANG

Semarang, the seat of the government of central java, is a delightful hillside town on the north coast. There is no harbor as such; passengers from ships are brought ashore by steam launch.

HOW TO GET THERE

Semarang can be reached from Jakarta by following the north coast road through Cirebon and Pekalongan; the entire road is suitable for an ordinary car. Semarang can also be reached by rail and air.

MOUNTAIN RESORTS SOUTH OF SEMARANG

Bandungan : on the slopes of Mt. Ungaran, about 3000 ft above sea level, to get there, take the road from Semarang to Ambarawa; at Ambarawa, turn North West off the main road and follow the small road for about 10 miles to Bandungan. At Bandungan, there is a guest house the only food in town is Indonesian. There is a lovely view from the town. And a small 8 century temple, Gedung Sangan, that can be reached by horseback.

KOPENG : on the slope of mt. Merbabu; another beautiful mountain retreat, from Semarang, drive to Salatiga, (also very pleasant) and from there go on the road to Magelang until you reach Kopeng ( about 13 km from Salatiga ).

YOGYAKARTA

This Cultural Center and formal capital of Indonesia can occupy a visitor for days with its batik makers, painters, silversmiths, and dancers, the Keraton is open to visitors, and the restored temples of Borobudur and Prambanan are only a short drive away.

HOW TO GET THERE

Car : Yogya Is About 600 Km. (13-16 Hours,

Depending on your driving habits) from Jakarta. There are various possible routes; check road conditions with someone who has recently made the trip before setting off. In general, the two best roads are the northern one through Cirebon, Pekalongan, and Semarang, which although it carries heavy truck traffic, is generally adequately maintained, and the middle route through Bandung, Purwokerto, Wonosobo ( where you can take a side trip to the dieng plateau ), and Temanggung. In the dry season, the southern route via Purworejo, Kebumen and Sumpiuh is fun; it is a scenic route and carries little commercial traffic. Many travelers prefer to drive to Yogya in two days, breaking the journey to Bandung, Cirebon, or Wonosobo.

Train : the day train 12 hours is recommended only to the hardy; take food and water. The only disadvantage to the night sleeper ( bima ) is that as it is scheduled to reach Surabaya early in the morning, it arrives in Yogya about 1 a.m.(there are, however, a flock of becaks and the Ambarukmo hotel bus waiting to meet travelers). Check the transportation section for details and other possibilities.

Plane : flight between Yogya and Jakarta via Garuda and Mandala airlines are heavily booked; confirm reservations and be at the airport at check-in time. The Ambarukmo bus and taxis meet all planes. Bargain with taxis.

SIGHTS

Borobudur : 39 km (1 hour drive) from Yogya on the road to Magelang ninth century Buddhist temple, java’s most important ancient monument, undergoing restoration at present. The best guides in English are the relevant pages of Claire Holt’s art in Indonesia and two booklets, glimpses of the Borobudur and the Lara Jonggrang temples, both on sales at the Borobudur.

Mendut : on the side road to Borobudur : perhaps part of the same temple complex. It has two fine seated bodhisattvas.

Prambanan : ninth century shivaiite temple complex, 17,5 km from Yogya on the road to solo. There are numerous other temples ( kalasan, sari, sewu, and plaosan and others ) along this road, keep a sharp look out for the small sign posted by the archaeological service. You can read about all these temples in Claire Holt’s Book.

Ratu Baka : Interesting temples and lookout point off main road to Yogya from Prambanan: at large triangular section, turn left (instead of right, the way back to Yogya). Look for sign “ Dinas Purbakala Ratu Baka ”.

Sultan’s Kraton (Palace) : Built In 1775 By Hamengkubuono I. Interesting country yards, royal gamelan, wayang puppets. Open mornings only English speaking guides available.

Water Palace (Taman Sari) : located west keraton, fascinating partially restored ruins; royal swimming pool area behind the water palace is the center of the batik home industry with many batiks painters working in old tunnel studios

Ambarukmo Palace : located behind the pavilion at the hotel.

Balai Batik (The Batik Research Center) : jl. Kusumanegara 2, an English – speaking guide will conduct you on a free tour, showing the complete process of making a batik, batiks on sale , also books on batik making. Open mornings only.

Kraton Kota Gede : 6 Km south east of yogya, dates from the origins of Mataram. Pool at the kraton has a white turtle said to have magical powers.

Grave Of Prince Senopati : Founder of Mataram, located at Kota Gede near the Kraton.

Royal Tombs At Imogiri : hilltop burial site for Princess Of Mataram, Solo and Yogya, at top of 345 stairs. 20 km s.e. of yogya, open Monday at 10 a.m.-1 p.m. and Friday. 1:30 – 4:30. Inside the tombs, royal Javanese dress (shoulders and feet bare for women) must be worn; appropriate kain can be rented at the site. A great experience, allow several hours.

Sonobudoyo Museum : fine exhibit of batiks, sculpture, other crafts. Open every morning except Monday.

CULTURAL EVENTS

Gamelan : Tuesday And Thursday late morning at the keraton. It is possible to tape the performance for a small fee.

Javanese Dance : dance training sunday 10 a.m.-1 p.m. in kraton. Also, the fourteenth of every month at the Penjokusuman pavilion in the evening.

Wayang Kulit : One 2 Hours Show For Tourists Every Weekday Afternoon At Gedong Kiwa

Wayang Orang : Javanese Dancing At The Recreation Center Near The Bus Terminal On Jl. Gondomanan Every Night From 8 P.M. Until After Midnight

SEASONAL EVENTS

Ramayana Ballet : June Through October, The Ramayana Ballet (An Adaptation Of The Indian Epic) Is Performed At Prambanan Temple Complex On Four Successive Nights During The Full Moon, From 7-9 P.M., A Huge Gamelan Orchestra Accompanies The 500 Dancers.

Sekaten : Occurring A Week Before Garebeg Maulud, Mohammed’s Birthday, Centers Around The Kraton And The Royal Mosque. The Holy Gamelan, Played Only At This Time Of Year, Is Carried In Procession And Plays For Seven Days In Front Of The Big Mosque. Celebration Culminate On Mohammed’s Birthday When The Rice Mountain, The Gunungan Is Carried In Procession.

Waicak (Wesak) : Full Moon Festival Commemorating The Birthday Of Buddha, His Enlightment And Death; Held At Borobudur During The Night In May. Buddhist Priests And Pilgrims Circle The Temple In A Procession Carrying Lighted Candles On The Stuppa.

SOLO ( SURAKARTA )

Solo is less developed for tourism than yogyakarta. Nevertheless, it’s two kratons, museum, wayang orang troupe (one of the most famous in java), and night food stalls provide more than enough of interest to warrant a stop, or perhaps more easily, a day’s expedition from yogya. Everything closes in the evening; sightsee early in solo.

HOW TO GET THERE

Most trains going to yogya go on to solo; one can board through trains in yogya. Taxi from yogya is the easiest way to reach solo, though the train (1 hour) is far cheaper.

SIGHTS

Susuhunan’s Kraton : A Lovely Palace, Worth Visiting; English-Speaking Guides Are Scarce. It Contains An Excellent Art Gallery And A Fine Small Museum. A Wayang Beber (The Earliest Of Wayang, In The Form Of Scroll) Artist.

Mangkunegara’s Kraton : The Palace Of The Junior Line Of The Royal Family. Excellent Art Gallery And Souvenir Shop Within Its Walls

Sriwedari Amusement Park : Jl. Slamet Riyadi, Home Of Very Famous Wayang Orang Troupe, Which Ferform Every Night, Dancing The Ramayana Story.

Solo Museum : Next To Sriwedari, A Miscellaneous, But Fascinating Collection Of Mementos From Central Java’s Past.

Candi Suki : a late (14^th century) hindu temple: fascinating because the carved figures are already in wayang style, direction go east out of solo on the road over mount lawu (follow signs to tawangmangu and serangan). Just after the market at karanganyar, turn left at the sign “proyek irigasi dimoro” go to the end of the passable road and then hike about ½ hours. Further up the mountain. The trip from solo to the temple takes 1 to 2 hrs one way.